Yes, I know I went to the Gambia last year but this year
Lynne came with me. It was just a week and we agreed that I would go
birdwatching in the morning and Lynne would read her Kindle on the beach and
get a tan. It worked out something like that but with a few unexpected twists.
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| Kombo Beach hotel. We had a ground floor room. |
The journey out was uneventful. On Tuesday 20 November a
6-hour flight from Gatwick. There is no time difference so we arrived late
afternoon and settled in in time for dinner, unpacked, did the crossword, put
tripod and lens together ready for the morning. Realised I’d forgotten my hat
so decided to get one at the local bazaar. The only hat I could get was too
big, had no style and was very floppy but it did, at least, keep the sun off. Don't laugh, now!
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Not exactly 'a la mode' but it kept the sun off!
In fact, later, I realised it was a great advantage.
When we were accosted by children or locals they
largely ignored me because I looked so stupid! |
After I bought the hat I was accosted by a bird guide, Ebou
Barry, who wanted me to go on a trip with him. I agreed to go on Thursday to
Abuko.
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| Senegal coucal |
On Wednesday morning I set off to go round the
Kotu Bridge,
the paddyfields at the back leading on to the sewage ponds! It was hot and I
re-acquainted myself with many familiar birds.
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| Wattled plover |
Of note were the Senegal coucal,
wattled plover, yellow-billed kite, squacco heron, Senegal thick-knee, green
wood-hoopoe, hooded vulture and especially the ubiquitous but charismatic pied
kingfishers.
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| Pied kingfisher, hovering |
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| Long-tailed glossy starling |
I wandered slowly round old haunts first visited on my
Birdfinders trip last year. I was trying to get a shot of a subalpine warbler
when I met this bird photographer with the same lens as I had (but he had
better cameras). I got talking to him and after 10 minutes or so I realised he
was Dave Williams, the author of a blog about a previous visit to the
Gambia which I had read shortly before leaving
England! What a
small world!
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| Dave Williams, Claire and me |
We agreed to do some visits together and I spent quite a lot
of my birdwatching time with Dave during the week of our visit. Dave was there
with his wife, Claire, for a whole month!
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| Me 'helping' jack up the wheels of Ebou Barry's car when he got stuck in the sand. |
Eventually we got to Marakissa but it was quiet and Ebou
didn’t seem very keen to find any birds for us. He knew the birds we did see
but he had no recordings to attract others. The highlights were a long-crested
eagle and a grey-headed bush-shrike.
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| Long-crested eagle |
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| Grey-headed bush-shrike |
As the morning wore on I started to feel queasy. At Marakissa I had
diarrhoea. I drank tea and flat cola (flat cola seems to be the current
'cure' for bad stomach). After our visit to the reserve we got into the car and started back. I
had travelled in the front on the way down. I told Dave I’d love to offer him
the front seat, but the way I felt I needed to have access to an open window and
the back window didn’t open!! Dave generously got in the back.
My prescience was accurate. No sooner had we
reached the main road than I threw up violently, several times, even while we
were going. This left me empty. I felt somewhat better but I still just wanted to go back
to the hotel and lie down. Lynne bought me some local potion to make me feel better:
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Lynne's heart was in the right place.
I had to decline her kind offer of medicinal beverages! |
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| Schoolchildren on Lynne's visit. |
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Typical Gambian house. This isn't just
the bedroom; it's the whole house! |
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You can tell Lynne enjoyed the day trip. She looks so happy!
This was taken by one of the kids. It was supposed to be
Lynne with his friends but he was overzealous with the zoom! |
Dave had arranged another trip with another Dave (Dave 2) in
a taxi to Tanji, a local fishing village. Tanji was good. We had views of many
gulls (grey-headed, lesser black-backed and kelp), bar-tailed godwits,
sandwich, royal and Caspian terns but, unusually, no sanderlings!
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| Bar-tailed godwits. Dashing through the surf! |
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Western reef heron.
(Spur-winged plover in front, greenshank behind) |
We then moved on to Tanji Bird Reserve where the highlight
was a group of four-banded sandgrouse which kept flying 50-100 metres or so
every time we flushed them. We spread out. Dave 2 was the main benefactor as Dave 1 and I
flushed a group and they landed near him, allowing him to get amazing shots of
one of them landing. When we flushed them again I did manage a reasonable shot
but they were more distant and harder to lock onto. Nevertheless, sandgrouse
are very difficult to see at the best of times so any sort of shot is an
achievement!!
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| Four-banded sandgrouse |
I felt slightly guilty that Dave 1 didn’t get a shot! Sorry Dave!
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| Brown babbler |
The next day we stayed around the usual places. The highlight
being some little bee-eaters which were quite tame and who all alighted on one
reed stem, weighing it down.
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| Little bee-eaters |
Here’s a picture of me taking their photo!:
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| Try and ignore that hat! |
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| Lesser blue-eared glossy starling |
On the last full day I went with Dave to see if the Medical
Research Council would let us in to their compound as I had heard from someone
on the plane that it was very good for birds. They wouldn’t let us in, so we
went instead to the monkey sanctuary. We saw few monkeys and very few birds!
This was surprising. Well, after that we went to the Senegambia Hotel, where
Dave assured me I would be able to see nearby white-crowned robin-chats. He was
absolutely right. There were two of them which came very close indeed. The only
trouble was that they were too close, sometimes directly above our heads! Also
they like dark places and the light is always poor. Therefore my photos are not
the best.
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| White-crowned robin-chat |
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| Blue-breasted kingfisher |
And then it was time to go. After packing, I went to the
stallholder who had sold me my hat and gave it back to him. He was at his
Singer sewing machine making more stuff. He was quite pleased to have it back
so he could sell it again.
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| Red-cheeked cordon- bleu (Yes, really. Cordon-bleu!) |
The trip home was OK after we had checked in. However, I had
left our tickets on the table of Africell at the airport on the way in when I
wanted to buy a few Dalasi credit. The Gambia Experience, our tour operator,
said it was no problem as they could do new tickets for £10 each. Trouble was
we were eventually last in the queue and only then did they start writing them
out! We ended up pretty well the last to be checked in and our nerves were
getting frayed by then. After that everything was plane sailing (pun intended)!
We took off early, met our taxi easily and we were home well before midnight to
sleep in our own bed again. Aahh!
